Wild!...a Horse Meat Recipe
A friend writes: The controversy over butchering wild horses in the American West seems a bit odd from the other side of the world, especially in view of the growing spectre of mad cow disease.
In Switzerland, every town has a butcher who specializes in horse meat. They say there is nothing like a good horse steak when you're feeling down. When somebody runs around exhibiting high levels of energy, they say, "On dirait qu'il a mange' du cheval." (one would say he has eaten some horse.)
The meat itself is sweeter than beef. It is the preferred meat for fondue bourguignonne, in which fine slices of beef or horse are plunged into boiling broth or oil. This is considered a luxurious festive meal. Just as veal is finer than beef, pony is finer than horse. Milk-fed ponies are best.
Here's a recipe for marinated horse steaks: Mix a wine glass full of cognac with the juice of half a lemon, fresh ground pepper, rosemary, thyme, and marjoram. Rub the steaks with lard and marinate for four hours. Season with salt and pepper. Grill quickly over high heat in a frying pan for a minute or two on each side, then reduce heat and cook to taste. Remove the steaks to a warm oven, add the marinade and a cup of water to the frying pan and reduce the sauce. Whisk a cup of cream into the sauce. Smother the steaks with the sauce, serve, and watch out!"on dirait qu'il mange' du cheval!"
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